We received our ticket passes to Tokyo Disneyland and of course we are very happy. It was delivered in a large, extra-thick glossy blue envelope. I thought at first that tickets to Tokyo Disneyland are A4 standard sized certificates that we can flash to the Disneyland authorities when we get there. When I opened the blue envelope, there was a piece of an A4 sized paper and a sealed letter sized envelope. (I later learned that this A4 sized paper is the ticket receipt. wow, only in Japan).

I opened the letter sized envelope and inside it is a folded map and yet another smaller envelope. I opened this smallest envelope and lo and behold! Inside are the Disneyland tickets, smaller than 1/8 size of an A4 paper!

So, my ever-questioning-self readily asked: why the need for an extra-large, extra-thick flashy envelope for a tiny piece of paper? They could have simply and conveniently enclosed the tickets, the receipt and the map in a small standard envelope. Perhaps, it’s for commercial purposes? The Japs are known for elaborate and fancy packaging regardless of the quality of the goods being sold. I have no problem with this, I certainly like looking at beautiful things ;-). Or perhaps, they just wanted to add an element of surprise like when you are expectantly unwrapping a present? I find no problem with this either...


Sandankyou_053

... It’s just that, I think, there’s a lot of paper being wasted. My issue is a small issue indeed. It’s just about papers, and trees, the environment.

The above-mentioned case is just one example of what I think is unnecessary manufacturing. The economist, industrialist, businessmen, or the so-called capitalist may disagree with me but look, everything comes from something. For how long can we abuse our resources? There is no free lunch...


How many advertisements are printed on fancy glossy papers and delivered to mail boxes everyday? Billions in industrialized countries. Most often, these advertisements go directly to the trash because people are too busy to read them They’re actually just nuisance, junk mails!

And does anybody care to ask how many trees in the 3rd world countries are being cut down everyday to supply paper manufacturers? I believe, small things and big things are connected.



When you were born, you didn't come with an owner's manual; these guidelines make life work better.

1. You will receive a body. You may like it or hate it, but it's the only thing you are sure to keep for the rest of your life.

2. You will learn lessons. You are enrolled in a full-time informal school called "Life on Planet Earth". Every person or incident is the Universal Teacher.

3. There are no mistakes, only lessons. Growth is a process of experimentation. "Failures" are as much a part of the process as "success."

4. A lesson is repeated until learned. It is presented to you in various forms until you learn it: then you can go on to the next lesson. Jul_06_143

5. If you don't learn easy lessons, they get harder. External problems are a precise reflection of your internal state. When you clear inner obstructions, your outside world changes. Pain is how the universe gets your attention.

6. You will know you've learned a lesson when your actions change. Wisdom is practice. A little of something is better than a lot of nothing.

7. "There" is no better than "here". When your "there" becomes a "here" you will simply obtain another "there" that again looks better than "here."

8. Others are only mirrors of you. You cannot love or hate something about another unless it reflects something you love or hate in yourself.

9. Your life is up to you. Life provides the canvas; you do the painting. Take charge of your life, or someone else will.

10. You always get what you want. Your subconscious rightfully determines what energies, experiences, and people you attract; therefore, the only foolproof way to know what you want is to see what you have. There are no victims, only students.

11. There is no right or wrong, but there are consequences. Moralizing doesn't help. Judgments only hold the patterns in place. Just do your best.

12. Your answers lie inside you. Children need guidance from others; as we mature, we trust our hearts, where the Laws of Spirit are written. You know more than you have heard or read or been told. All you need to do is to look, listen, and trust.

13. You will forget all this.

14. You can remember any time you wish.


author - I wish it was me ;-)





Immortal...

that I call you

after hearing your story.


A mere mortal,

the ordinary

that is me.


Games of the immortal

you play

I said, it's funny.




Didn't quite expect,

in this modernity

exist a Greek deity.


Name, profession, blood,

like a royalty

it amuses me.


The beloved,

you cannot marry

because they do not agree.


Call it complicated,

the world you carry

you are not everybody.


I understand

your high society

don't you worry.


But dear immortal,

between you and me

who is lucky?


It is me, it is me

because I am free

free, free!


and we both know...




Yoga To silence the chattering mind and be open for new insights from the Universe. To be in tune or in sync with the Great One.


There are many paths. Some people meditate in silence; perform asanas to clean the chakras; chant; go to church, mosques, temples and shrines to sing praises and worship.


Each of us choose what we think is best for us.
My body can't stand a cross-legged posture for more than 5 minutes. I am too lazy to do the asanas. I get tired chanting while the others seem to be elevated in bliss. I get sleepy and bored in church. I go to temples and shrines for sightseeing and exposure to history and culture.


So, what I do? I go to the forest and talk to the trees and plants. I greet the sun every morning, welcome the rain, sing with the wind. I say hello to the dandelion I pass by everyday. I'm good buddies with my house pets, I talk to the neighbors' dogs and cats. Some people may think I'm crazy, but I guess this is just another valid path.









Really "pacific"... deep, quiet and calmed.,. not until the next typhoon...



Rolled down from the volcanic mountains for a million of years.





Moving free in nature, foraging for organic food. Pure and charming...




healthy and strong... and tasty!?!






The boat-carvers camp in these organic and natural huts... They eat fresh fish, rice and vegetables...







Visited a village in the back mountains. It's a boat carving village.





In an unspoilt corner of the world.







Mount Iraya, sacred volcanic mountain to the Ivatans...




1. Leap of Faith


Batanes_256 It is true, I just saw Batanes on a map and was curious so I flew there. Before going to Batanes I was thinking of traveling locally, only that I had no idea where. I did not know anyone from there. I just got a handful of information from the internet. I made up my mind for a solitary adventure so I packed up and went off. And everything went so right!




2. To the Clan Mothers, I lower my head in respect


The sisters, aunts andBatanes_166 mothers, I met in Batanes have literally, sheltered me, fed me, clothed me, listened to me, and, cheered me up when I needed it. I couldn't say more how grateful I am. They have showered me their genuine love and generosity.


I might have looked really miserable (although I don't think so) that one day when 2 aunts offered me clothes to wear: "wear this to keep you warmer, I do not have "kili-kili" (armpit odor) power so don't worry". "These are my daughters' but they are not using it anymore, pick anything you can wear to keep you comfortable in this chilly weather". I wanted to tell them that I didn't need anymore clothes but of course I could not tell them to their faces. So I accepted and was indeed, warmer :-). Mothers truly know better.


From my understanding, the idea of "clan mothers" is Celtic as well as derived from other indigenous traditions the world over. They are the females of the human race who nurture and train their youngs (specially their daughters or the young women of the community) to perform their invaluable role in the community such as nurturing, healing, inspiring, magicking, etc, etc. This 'clan mothers' follow the long-forgotten Goddess Path. So when I was there with these wonderful women, I felt I was being nurtured and taught by the great mother Goddess herself. I felt the warmth especially that my own mother passed away for several years already and I have not been feeling that nurturing connection for quite a few years since my mother died.

Batanes_076
And of course, the uncles,
fathers and brothers I found in those islands have also kept my heart warm and their funny jokes made me laugh despite the moody broody weather.





3. Optimism and Helpers

Batanes_238

Whatever you want to do to make you happy, if it is fun and of good report, if it makes your soul smile, by all means, do it! Be determined and positive and assistance from nowhere magically flows to you. I was short of money but was determined to leave Basco that day, good souls swiftly came to my aid. And of course, since I can practically pay the money back through bank transfer, I did not choose to have it for free.



... And this wonderful Batanes trip is not of course an isolated case. Similar wonders of kindness, sincerity, human warmth, synchronicity, good impressions, invaluable education, friendship, etc, etc, were experienced in my local travels in the Philippines, in Hokkaido, in Thailand and in Cambodia. These experiences are encouraging me to do more, to do what I really want to do... to travel far and wide, to touch peoples' lives and be touched by them.


~^~^~


........ ... THE END of this chapter.................





... Finally (again), I was off in the air! The Asian Spirit plying the Manila-Basco-Tuguegarao route is much bigger than I expected, and I felt like back to "civilization".


Before boarding the plane, I arranged to have a rendezvous with a friend in Tuguegarao. She'll have to travel one hour from her place to go to Tuguegarao.


The aircraft touched down in Tuguegarao airport and I went downtown by tricycle. When I reached the city, I wondered whether I came back to "civilization" or to chaos. Noise, air pollution, people, buildings, tricycles, buses, jeepneys, and even calesas are all crowding the streets.


The calesa (horse drawn carts used for public transportation) especially caught my attention. The horses were so pitiful. They are skinny, they appear to be dehydrated, drained of energy, parched by the heat of the sun... Then I lifted my gaze up to their drivers. Hands clutching thick ropes used in flagging the horses, eyes scrounging the streets for passengers. I was very surprised. It struck me how the horsemen astonishingly resembled their horses. Very skinny, shriveled, scorched skins... I didn't know what to think. I stood there for sometime, stunned, silently watching them.


I thought how the Ivatans always claim that they are "poor." In the same manner, many outsiders (non-Ivatans) think of the Ivatans as poor and primitive since they live in stone houses. But no Ivatan I saw look like these drained people of the cities, their shirts hanging very loosely from their twiggy bodies. Moreover, the Ivatans' animals are healthy, happy and free.


My brooding over suffering and misery was suddenly replaced by happiness when my friend arrived. Such a relief. We happily trotted towards Chowking and ordered halo-halo with ice cream for each. We savored the creamy ice and beans in that humid hot weather, excitedly talking in between gulps. After an hour, my friend sent me off to the bus terminal where I will take my ride to Baguio that evening. Then she also had to catch the last jeepney back to her place. Even for that very brief time together, it was a joy to meet a friend you have not met for a quite sometime and in a place you are both not familiar with.


The bus started at 5 pm and I arrived in Baguio at 5 am. I felt totally exhausted. Certainly, not from the 3 weeks fruitful adventure but from the 12 hours bus ride.

to be continued...


Travel Time: January 2006






Batanes_191Finally, (again) the mighty wind calmed down a bit and I was able to board a rock'n boat back to Basco. While on board, I sent sms to the people there sayin', "I am comin' back". The doctor's wife replied, "drop by at the house and eat your breakfast".

Since I have seen most of the things to be seen, I thought it's time to get back to Luzon. So the next day, I went to the airport to book a ticket. At the airport, I confirmed that there is a flight going back to Loaog at about 11 am that day. So I went back to my host's house to get my things. Just before I was preparing to leave, the doctor came to give me a live "tatus" (coconut crab), an Ivatan special delicacy when cooked. It is actually a crab that looks like a combination of a big black spider and a crab (sounds gross?). They convinced me that it tastes better than a lobster! The doctor and his wife are very kind and thoughtful to take the trouble of bringing me a tatus. They thought that since I am not able to try tatus in my stay there (because of the sour weather there was no catch), I'd bring one with me to taste when I get back home.


After saying goodbye to the folks, I was brought to the airport only to discover that there was no flight because I was the only passenger! "Maybe tomorrow", they said.


Batanes_255

Next day came, no flight, then another day, no flight. I was getting impatient. This time, it was not the weather who's the troublemaker, it was the lack of passengers. I could not afford to charter the whole 8 seater aircraft. Everyday, I packed up and said goodbye and everyday, I walked back to the house, my host family always welcoming me with open arms and great smiles. "Always come back to our house", they said.


The day came when I made up my mind to go back to Luzon no matter what it takes. In a few days, I have a scheduled trip to Palawan and there is no certainty when passengers for Loaog will appear. I decided to take the bigger Asian Spirit airplane bound for Tuguegarao. With this altered plan, however, I have to undergo a few compromises . I have to pay a thousand pesos more for the plane fare; I will have to forget seeing a couple of places in Ilocos Norte, places I originally planned of seeing on my way back to Baguio; I have to take a longer route, I have to ride a looong 12 hours bus ride from Tuguegarao to Baguio instead of the 6 hours from Loaog.


This time, I was really determined. But there was one major problem. I am short of 800 hundred pesos for the plane fare. There is only one ATM bank in Basco and unfortunately, I tried but could not withdraw money from that bank. So I texted one kababayan (a guy from the same Province I come from) I previously befriended in Itbayat island. At the same time, Kuya, the father in my host family learned of my problem and he told his wife. So Ate Batanes_203Ofie, the lady host, came to my rescue and told me that if I am really determined to leave that day, she would lend me the needed money. Then she reiterated what she had been telling me throughout my stay there, that, "if I need anything, I should not hesitate" telling them...


Meanwhile, Mr. Kababayan in Itbayat texed back, saying "kas anu ngay, ket agutang ka a dita ta siak tu ti mangbayad". (Borrow money from anyone there and I will be the one to pay)...Aren't all these people great? I sometimes seriously think I drifted to one of those angelic realms.

....continued next post...



...The previous evening, the Chief mentioned to me about some burial jars left lying at the back of the munusipyo (town hall). So before going to the port that morning, I went to have a look at the jars.


Burial_jars

The ancient Ivatans have 2 major ways of burying their dead. One is putting their dead, fetal position, inside large burial jars. The jars are huge, about 3 feet long or more. When I saw the jars left there to crumble, I was a bit concerned.


I remember, years ago in my archeology digging class in Tokyo, we tried our best to dig, slowly and carefully to preserve whatever artifact we may find. If we find even just a fragment or a chip, we handle it with utmost care ensuring it reaches its safe place in a museum. But here, these huge ancient (and perhaps sacred) jars are left exposed to the power of the elements. One jar is even turned into a trash can.



... It can't be helped, the forces of nature are hard-headed sometimes. From the port, I disappointedly walked back to the clinic. The staff warmly welcomed me for the second time.

The mayor of that town came with a man he was showing around. He introduced the man to the staff as the new chief police of the town. I was sitting at the corner frowning at the sudden downpour when the mayor noticed me. It was the second time I meet the mayor that day. He introduced me to the Chief.


Since we are both Ipula (non-Ivatan), the Chief of police seemed to find it agreeable talking to me than to the others.


He asked: What are you researching about?

I said: I am researching on how to get rid of the police.

He said: "What???"

I said: Ah, no I'm just kidding... I am researching on how we can do away with lawyers. (smiles)

He said: But why??? why do away with the police or lawyers?


I was silent for a while... wracking my brain to spit out the right words to follow through my initial brashness. But before I can come up with better words to say to him, he proved himself quick-witted and broadminded (mind you, contrary to my expectations of chief polices, hihi).


He said: Ah, you mean so that the people themselves police their own communities?

I said: Exactly sir! (wow, he could pick up my thoughts!)

He said: I fully agree with that and would really promote that proposition.


Then he elaborated more about his opinions on how the people may take charge of the peace and order over their own communities and the role the police would perform in that prospect. After that short exchange, the Chief and the mayor had to leave.I spent the rest of the afternoon writing on my journal.


In the evening, somebody reappeared, the Chief. We greeted each other. He told me that he is waiting for the mayor who is somewhere around the neighborhood and that they are going to a birthday party nearby and that he is waiting for the mayor's text message. While waiting for the mayor, we talked about politics, religion, tribes, and the zero crime rate of Batanes. I told him about the main door of the clinic which is always kept open. Even at night, the security guard leaves the door open while he sleeps on a folding bed beside it. The Chief laughed and reflectively mentioned that since he came from chaotic Manila, he may get bored of the quietness and pacific mood of his new destination.






He asked why I chose to come to distant Batanes rather than any other place nearer mainland Philippines. I said, I merely saw the Batanes group of islands in a map and wondered about the them. So I came, and saw, and is now fascinated with the place and its people. The awaited beep came and the Chief had to go.


It was indeed interesting to exchange opinions with the Chief. From his physical looks alone, it seemed that his female aspect is very activated. He looked quite feminine, with a light frame, average height, light complexion, soft but firm vocal chords. Just the opposite of my image of pot-bellied policemen


I set my phone to alarm at 5:30 for the next morning. I was told that the first trip to Basco will be at 6 am. That is, if the weather is right.


Then I went to bed..




Sabtang_coastlineThe next day was Monday. Someone was assigned to show me around the 4 other villages in the morning. In the afternoon, I am supposed to go back to Basco. Concerned that I might be inconveniencing them too much, I suggested I pay for the gas that will be used for the trip.


My guide brought me to the fascinating "old style" looking villages. We motorbiked through very narrow and steep roads and passages. At one point, I even requested to my guide to let me walk in an almost 90 degree steep narrow road (which looked more like a sidewalk Steepthan a road) telling him that I will ride the motorbike again when the road reaches a safely acceptable level. He said that that's not necessary so I gathered up my courage and we passed through that overhang. We motorbiked through steeps, rain or shine, windy or not (the weather seemed to flip-flop every 5 minutes).



We even climbed an "idjang", an ancient mountainTradl_headgear fortress by the Ivatan ancestors. In the Philippines, only Batanes has this culture which is similar in utility and characteristic to the "chashi" of the Ainu of Japan. My Ivatan friends knowledgeably mentioned that this fortress culture also closely resembles the ancient fortresses in Okinawa, Japan.


When we came back to the center of the town at 12 noon, there were enough passengers waiting for the boat that goes back to Basco. I hurriedly took my bag and ate lunch. But when the boat arrived, it refused to travel back to Basco. The other passengers tried to negotiate, they offered that we passengers pay more than or even double the regular boat fare. Despite all the coaxing, the boat owner was decided that his boat is not going to go back to Basco that same day.


I began to worry, I no longer have business there, I had to go back to Basco. I didn't wanna be stranded again. There is one more chance the other passengers said. There is a bigger boat coming, it is sturdier, its captain might agree to go back to Basco. When the bigger boat arrived, the people negotiated again. The captain just simply refused to sail while trying hard to avoid the eyes of all the waiting passengers, then he went straight home.


Batanes_161

It was sunny and warm. I seriously wondered why these boat operators refused to travel for just 30-45 minutes. We even offered to pay them more! I heard one stubborn (like me) passenger express, "Kung pwede lang lakarin ang dagat..." (If I can only walk on water)... Later, I learned that the reason for no sailing that afternoon was because the wind shifted north. The locals call it nortada. In Tagalog, it is Amihan. I fancied that if I have a daughter, I may name her Amihan. It sounds cute, and the girl will be strong and fierce as the north wind! Nobody seemed to dare challenge the north wind...




After a couple of days of cranky weather in Basco, we sensed that the wind is coming from the east. This meant that the weather condition is getting better and that I could take the chance to jump to another island. So my friend, the Doctor's beautiful wife, told me that I could sleep in their house that night so that she could take me to the port very early the next morning. I was a little hesitant because I thought I might be abusing their hospitality. So I told her that perhaps Jun, the cousin of Don, can drive me to the port in the early morning. I thought she agreed with me but when we were eating dinner in her house by the beach, she told her husband that I will sleep there that night so that they could bring me to the port early in the morning. The doctor agreed. So, that same night after dinner, we motorbiked to my host's house to take my things then back to the house near beach.


I set my mobile phone to alarm at 5:30, the boat to Sabtang will leave at 6 am. The next morning, I was woken up by some movements, I went out from my room and saw the doctor preparing breakfast and her wife looking for a suitable jacket for me to wear. The three of us hurriedly ate breakfast and my friend packed me some sandwiches and a bottle of water... then the Doctor and I went off to the port.

They day looked promising. Its fairly clear skies but still foggy in the early morning. The ocean waves as I saw it from the port looked relatively calm.



Batanes_148

The boat ride was only 45 minutes and this time I was not seasick. I even sat at the edge of the boat enjoying the view. There was a significant number of passengers. There were locals, there was a young Taiwanese couple, and two local tourists from Manila. When we reached the island, the whimsical weather changed again, it began to heavily rain!



I was met at the port by a lady previously contacted by the Doctor. She was carrying umbrellas, one for me and the other for herself. She asked me if I want to rent a room for the night or stay in the clinic for free. I told her, I may stay in the clinic if it is allowed. She said, "yes of course, that is practical and better".


The clinic is like a regular office at daytime. There are a few staff but no patients. I was later to learn that do not really house patients there anymore, unless it's an emergency. However, since I arrived there on a Sunday, the place was totally deserted.


That morning, there was no sightseeing because of a downpour. After some rest, the lady who met me at the port escorted me to interview a respondent. For the rest of the day, I was left alone to do as I please. It was like the whole house was mine, I cooked my own food and I had a room and a bed speciallySabtang_island arranged for me. When the rain stopped, I went around the town and climbed the nearby hills.


Evening came, the lady who met me at the port appeared with another woman. She introduced the latter as a staff in the clinic and that if I need anything, I should not hesitate to tell her. We had a little chat, they informed me that they requested their clinic security guard to report that night to 'guard' me. I secretly thought that that was not necessary, but I could just nod my head and say, OK.











Basco_town... We arrived at the house. There were already 3 people there, the lady host, the physician and his wife. I was welcomed ever warmly.. I was offered a cup of coffee, a donut, and as expected, we quickly arrived to the the usual 'question and answer session'. Although my head was still spinning, I tried my best to answer their questions intelligibly. It so happened that the physician in the group is a graduate from my Alma mater so he asked most questions about the University and if his classmates and friends are still there. After the question and answer session, they suggested I go and have some rest in the bedroom.

When I recovered after some 45 minutes rest, I had to face the 'accommodation confusion'. It is up to me they said, whether I stay in that house or stick to the previous plan. I wanted to please everybody so I was having a difficult time deciding. To make the story short, I decided to stay.


My decision proved to be the better one. For the next "research"* and sightseeing days, I was always provided with a more-than-willing guide, driver, interpreter, and a good friend, all gratis!

* I was a self-made researcher there :-), it was not pure sightseeing, mountain climbing and drinking. It actually involved some interviewing elders, it was all fun!


For the days that followed, apart fromDear_friend sightseeing, motorbiking up the mountain, down the mountain, along the coast, through narrow and steep roads, I conducted interviews. I was able to interview a 102 year jolly old man who shared the stories of the past. A slightly drunk grandmother puffing her tobacco and singing love songs, entertained us. Another giggly, charming grandmother tried hard to "appropriately" respond to my interview questions. I was also able to talk to the only Ivatan scholar (at that time, at least), Professor H.





...After 4 hours and 15 minutes, we finally reached Basco
port.I was still very dizzy from my seasickness. But I still remembered what I wasWaves told to do by the time I reach the port. I was supposed to send a text message to the lady, Mrs. O, who voluntarily and kindly arranged a free accommodation for me in that town. I met her earlier in the morning as one of the passengers who luckily took the first flight from Itbayat.

The crew and my fellow passengers were starting to move out,I peeped outside at the people waiting. I saw two gentle looking women looking directly at me and smiling. I was very puzzled, "who are they?" Perhaps they were the people arranged by Mrs O to adopt me? But how could they know, and why did they have come to the port? That was not what I was told it would be. Perhaps they were warned earlier and they took the trouble to spare me from the trouble of contacting them myself?


When I stepped out from the boat, staggering to balance myself upright on the platform, the two women reached out for my hand for a handshake. They mumbled some introductions that I didn't quite get. I was still very numbed, wet allover and my head was whirling. They kept on talking to me while we were walking away from the port. They're kind of curious and interested about a little, solitary traveling girl (perhaps the first time in Batanes, he he he :-) for people always wondered and asked why I went alone). I was so tired and all I wanted was to rest but I still managed to ask them who they are, again. The other woman responded:

" I am the mother of Don, he sent me a message at at 1 pm today when I just arrived from Manila telling me that a 'student researcher' boarded the boat from Itbayat. My son asked me to ask my sister, his aunt who lives here, if you could stay in her house, that is if you want to ... and this is M, (introducing the other woman) my twin sister".


Whoa! so it's another arrangement after all, not the previous arrangement offered by the other generous lady I met earlier in Itbayat. So I asked the mother of Don:


"Why didn't Don tell me this when I was in Itbayat?"


She replied that Don didn't know earlier that she (his mother) had already arrived from Manila. Apparently, while I was in the middle of the sea, my new found friend, Don, had been making some arrangement for my stay in Basco. At that time, I could not be reached because I turned off my phone. Then I told them about the previous accommodation arranged by Mrs. O. They replied that they know Mrs. O, and that in fact, they are neighbors, and that I can go to her if I wanted to. So I told them I first go with them and have some rest and send a text message to Mrs O later.





I was stranded in Itbayat island due to unpredictable weather conditions. I originally planned to stay there for 3 days but I stayed on for 7 days! What can someone do when there is neither flight nor boat to get you out of the island?


I tried to make the most of my stay. But there was nowhere to go because of the rain and the howling wind. I was staying in the government guest house for a minimum fee. People came to visit me, they brought me books to read and even some snacks. At night, my new found friends came over and we drank and told stories until daybreak. So much learned, so much shared.



On my fourth or fifth day, I was invited for a home stay. This was great, I am really going to experience living the real Itbayaten way. I ate the way they did and slept the way they did. One thing I noticed, they did not close their doors even at night. So one night, when I was sleeping, I heard some passersby talking (I'm certain, I was not dreaming).


I could not emphasize more about people's hospitality in these places. I do not usually eat in between meals but when I was in the home stay, my host mother always gave me food apart from the usual 3 full meals. They themselves normally do not eat snacks but they thought this is how people from Luzon island live so they took the trouble preparing some home made delicacies for me. And can you imagine an "aunt" running in the early morning to bring me my muddy shoes that I left somewhere? And my host mother, knowing that I didn't have the time to eat breakfast, came after me with a packed cassava cookies she made herself, and as if not contented, she went off to the nearest neighbor to get me a mug of hot milk (knowing that I do not drink coffee) so that I have something to go with the cookies. I'm amazed, how kind and generous these people really are.


When the weather finally got a little better, I was informed that there are 3 batches of flights going to Basco, the capital town of Batanes province. I was shortlisted in the 3rd flight. But after 1 hour waiting, we were told that the 3rd flight is canceled because of weather and airport conditions. Having been stranded for days, I was determined to travel, so I announced that I am going to dare the 4 hours boat ride to Basco. Some concerned individuals tried to dissuade me from taking that course due to bouncy water waves and heavy seasickness would be expected.




However, being the anxious city girl that I am, I couldn't be dissuaded. Ready to ride the boat and waiting at the port, we heard that the 2nd flight was just canceled. Me and my 2 companions who dared to take the boat ride agreed that it was indeed a good decision to take the 4 hour boat ride rather than to indefinitely wait for a 10 minute flight to Basco. An hour later, another passenger arrived. I saw him earlier, he was supposed to take the plane. So we are now a total of 4 passengers. One is a businesswoman, the other perhaps a student, and the newcomer is an "Ipula (someone not from Batanes like me) since I heard him speak in Tagalog and his outfit showed that he's not local.



Boarding the boat was not an easy task. We have to jump into the boat taking into consideration the rapid movements of the flying giant waves. One lady passenger, the businesswoman, passed out while trying to go on board. With the help of the men crew, carrying her, she was finally able to make it into the boat . The other girl was pushed and pulled into the boat. Watching the scene, instead of being afraid, I became very excited. Ironically,the adventurous spirit in me was raging with excitement. Finally, it was my turn. With outstretched arms reaching out for me from the boat crew, I was able to climb fast and relatively easy into the boat, defying the forces of nature :-).


At first, the motorboat was running relatively with ease. Then suddenly the gentler east wind shifted into

the fierce north wind (the locals call it "nortada"). The furious sea mercilessly lurched the boat, back and forth, back and forth. Huge waves bombarded us. I went over to the side to throw up. I was wet, numbed and seasick. We were in the middle of an angry sea and I could touch the pacific ocean just by stretching my arms towards it. I was not afraid of the dark blue rumbling water, I hoped that the boat will not turn over although every minute it gave the impression that it will. I was just so numb and seasick, I could not help throwing up a lot, and I didn't care much if I was going to die there.





Upon arrival to Loaog, I started figuring out how to reach the Batanes islands, my real destination for the trip. Hitting the 'right people' down the streets of city to whom I asked directions, I was able to buy a plane ticket for Batanes and acquire a map of “where to go”, “where to stay” and “where to eat” in Loaog. Prior to this, I had no information about the city.


As it turned out, the flight schedule to Batanes is irregular so I had to wait for 2 days in Loaog. That was cool because I planned to see the place anyway. So in the next 2 days, I went to the tourist and historical spots. The UNESCO Heritage site Paoay Church, Marcos Museum, the various old Spanish churches, Poay lake, the first Aglipayan church, and I even visited and did some gambling at Fort Ilocandia resort casino. And guess who I was with? (^^).. a man, a captain, who was “wanted” by the Government in the '80s. :-)


Batanes is the northernmost province of the Philippines. It has 10 small islands but only 3 are inhabited. Batanes is very much nearer to Taiwan than to any part of the Philippines. "From a global perspective, it is only 190 km. south of Taiwan but 280 km. from Aparri, the nearest point of mainland Luzon. It is 860 km. north of Manila".


And why indeed is Batanes a part of the Philippines and not Taiwan? The answer lies in history. When the zeal of Spanish missionaries reached these northern islands, they Christianized the inhabitants. The friars then declared the islands as belonging to the King of Spain.


I was dropped by the pilot of an 8 seater taxi aircraft in Itbayat Island. I came to learn that this is the biggest and farthest inhabited island. I did not know anyone from Batanes and I do not know anything about the islands. I was purely acting by following my gut feelings and trusting people I meet. I agreed with the captain to bring me to that farthest inhabited island (which he highly recommended) rather than to the main "Town Island". And as if really guided by Spirit, I was very grateful being in that isolated island for everything that happened next was fun and very educational. I met real good friends, young and old alike, we went to the mountains, caves, valleys,,, we sat on the green grass and drank "palek" (native wine) under the wide and star sprinkled sky. We did a lot of storytelling, sharing and drinking during the nights that followed.



As a believer of either luck or superstition, I started the year of 2006 doing something I really like to do, traveling...

Inspired by the latest empowering books I read and a new red mini digital camera that that was presented to me as a Christmas gift, I took the night bus to Loaog.


Then, I saw a lot and experienced a lot...


Two hours before arriving to the capital of the Ilocos region, I witnessed a tragic accident. An old acacia tree broke and fell on top of a van running opposite the bus I was riding. The van driver lost control and hit the bus I was in and the van flung to my side (I was at the window side)... then I saw them, 2 people, I thought they're still alive because I saw them stirring, only to realize that the movement was either their last or a movement created by the impact of the collision. Then I heard someone shouting "all dead!". 5 people, all died in a moment.


Everybody was shocked and involuntarily trembling. It was hard to believe seeing blood and tragic death right in front of your eyes. Later that night, my imagination was still very active and I'm finding it hard to sleep. I asked myself, "why did I have to witness such a tragedy?.. What am I supposed to learn from it?" If my bus was a few seconds faster than it was, the old acacia tree could have caught us. For a moment, I shivered of the thought, but somehow, I have a knowing that it was not my time, no, not yet :-) .


But why did I have to witness such an event? Richard Bach of "Illusions" said that we should not be perturbed by mere appearances. Contemplating on this, I came to hesitatingly acknowledge that that accident was just another appearance among many appearances... And in the end, no matter how sad and tragic, "all that happens to us is with our soul's full consent."


I know that the family of those who died were devastated and I sent my silent condolences through my prayers. But I am aware that I'm more detached and that's why I can philosophize on the event. But time and letting go heals, believe me...


Oh, and what a way to start a year and a trip to unknown places.